E0001 | Spring Garden Planning & Circle of Influence
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“Do Good Things”
In this episode we’re talking about Spring garden planning.
I wanted to start the podcast with our motto.
This is not some karma thing, this is not religious, although it is moral, and it does come from my faith.
This is about being a positive influence in the world, and keeping my priorities where I can actually affect a change.
I think it was Stephen Covey who wrote about your circle of influence vs. your circle of concern in his book 7 Habits of Highly Effective People, (of which I am not one of those people by the way)
He suggests that our time is best spent in our circle of influence, and to put aside our circle of concern. I may be concerned with rising acidity levels in the ocean, and the pollution of the world’s streams and lakes. But I can’t effectively influence what happens 2000 miles away from me.
I can change my own backyard. I think we would all be happier and bring about more meaningful and lasting positive changes in the world if we worried first and foremost about what happens in our own homes, and in our backyards. Lets do good things! How does that work? Well If I am doing something, it is inherently in my circle of influence, because I am doing something about it!
It’s my wife’s flowerbed, it’s my son’s drawing that I’m praising, it’s the goats that I’m milking, or the chickens I am rotating through pasture or forest.
I’m sure we’ll talk about this more in the future, but I wanted to set the tone at the start. I am all about doing good things. Because it leads to greater freedom and liberty in my life. And I hope you will come along with me on this journey, because it sure isn’t a destination.
So with that said, Let’s talk about doing something good!
Spring Garden Planning
It’s January 1st, the start of a new year and even though it’s cold outside, I have been bitten with the gardening bug. I already ordered my seeds because believe it or not folks, I will be starting seeds in 3 weeks. Yep, at the end of january I start pepper and tomato seeds.
And ya know what, it really helps me to stay focused and on task when I’ve worked up a schedule of when things need to happen and in what order. So I want to talk about Spring garden planning for the current season!
So lets break things down into the core components. If you know me, you know I’m all about getting to the root of something.
We need several things:
- Soil
- Mulch
- Fertility
- Protection from the elements
- Last and least – Water
Why is water the least important thing? You’re probably thinking “but plants die without water Nick” yep, they do, but of those 5 things, water is the last on my list, and I’ll tell you a little bit about how I have successfully gardened through D4 level droughts for years with no irrigation whatsoever.
- Plants or seeds to put there
- Seeds for direct sowing
- Plants
- Seed starting ingredients? You know, pots, soil..
So let’s think about this from the persepective of “I’m new to this property, or I am starting a new garden plot. What do I do? Where do I start?
First of all, you really want to start close to your house. We want to stay close to the house because it will be a lot easier for you to remember to get out there and tend to your garden, you’ll harvest more often, and be more prone to pay attention to it. And I’ll tell you a little secret, having a green thumb is a myth. All it is, is paying attention to details, and dilligence.
So you’ve found a likely spot close to your home, or so you think. How do you know what a good place is? Well I bet only a few of you know that most garden vegetables only need 4 hours of direct full sun. That means if you put your garden in the middle of a field, it’s going to bake like an egg in an oven.
What I tell my clients, when selecting a site for your garden, if you are in the south, it should be up against the east facing wall of a building or forest edge. You want that space shaded from noon, till sundown.
If you are in a more northern climate, or a cooler climate with mild summers, then you might instead select a location on a western facing or south facing wall. That helps you to trap more warmth in the springtime and get plants growing and healthy sooner.
So we have a location that is going to help shelter our garden from harsh solar rays, or one that helps warm things up sooner in the springtime.
The next thing most people are concerned with is soil quality, I have clay soils, I have sandy soils, I have rich black deep beautiful soils, or I have 2 inches of soil then rock. My preferred method works for all of them and you don’t have to worry about it!
Ok, this is what I want you to do, find contour on your land. Google it and look up how to find contour on youtube if you don’t know what that term means.
Mark out some lines on the ground on contour, and make each line 6 – 8 feet apart. Then take a shovel and cut along that line facing uphill deep enough to cut through the sod or weeds that make up your native soil, generally about 4” deep. Take that shovel full and place it to the downhill side of your line. Keep going until you have a 2-3′ wide ditch on uphill side, and a 3-4′ wide bed on the downhill side. The idea here is to make a grass or weed sandwich with all the topsoil, and form up some garden beds on contour. You can make those beds as wide or narrow as you like, and the same with your foot paths. I like to make this initial step a 4′ wide path, and a 3′ wide bed. Then when I build some soil and add mulch, I end up with a 2′ wide path and a 4′ wide bed, the perfect double reach size for me.
If you aren’t able to do this type of manual labor, apply the same instruction to a mechanical means, and form up your beds with a machine. I prefer to not chop up the sod and mix it up, so don’t use a tiller if you can help it, but I say any garden is better than none, so use a tiller if you don’t have anything else.
Alright, we have our beds cut and formed, now it’s time to build some soil! Since it is winter, this step is not as valuable for those of you who are in more northern climates, but in the south it’s just fine to do this now.
Find some sort of seed meal, anything that was ground up plant or seed should be fine. I have used rabbit pellets, laying pellets, alfalfa pellets, horse pellets, cottonseed meal, corn meal, old wheat flour, I’ve used them all and they all work.
The idea here is that we are finding some worm and bacteria food and putting it on the bed.
Then get some bone meal, enough to lightly cover the surface of the garden bed.
And some manure, rabbit, goat and sheep are best for this, but cow works as well. Do not use Horse, Pig, or poultry manure unless you put it through a hot compost process. You will regret it! I promise!
You’re going to take the seed meal, or pelleted food and lightly cover the whole surface of the garden soil, and do the same with the bone meal, and manure. You should have no soil surface showing after putting down the pellets or seed meal, bone meal, and manure. Next I like to water this in until damp, don’t use a lot of water, we want it to stay put and not wash away.
Then I go to the forest and find some nice forest floor duff. That’s the decomposed leaves, sticks, rotten forest floor stuff. Don’t take a lot from one area, I rake a 4′ wide section of leaves back, and go maybe 10 or 12′ and scrape that up into a wheel barrow and put the leaves back on top, then do the same in a few other areas so I don’t wipe out a section of my forest ecology. The idea is to harvest from abundant areas, and use that as seed stock to replenish your garden soil.
I’ll take my forest floor soil that is hopefully full of earthworm castings, eggs, and earthworms, and I sprinkle this liberally on all the beds.
Next, we cover with mulch! You can use lots of different kinds of mulch. I prefer chopped hardwood leaves (you can find these in abundance in the city in the fall when foolish people pay men with lawn mowers to come suck them up, chop and bag them. Then they leave them on the curb to take to a dump. When I used to work in a city, I’d drive down the nice neighborhood streets and collect bags of chopped leaves, and leave town with a pickup bed staked high with trash bags.
Now I use my own lawn mower to suck up all the leaves that fall on my driveway and I also use wood shavings from a local cabinet maker.
You can use wood chips from a municipal waste operation, or a tree trimming service.
Those are my favorite sources of mulch, hardwood leaves, wood chips, wood shavings, and organically grown straw. (not hay)
Don’t use sawdust, rubber mulch, pine needles, or hay. Each one of those has problems with it that we don’t have time to go into today.
Conclusion
So lets recap our Spring garden planning:
- We formed raised beds that are about 3 to 4′ wide, and our foot paths are at least 2′ wide
- we broke up the chunks of soil, so it’s relatively uniform
- then added our seed meal or animal pellet food, bone meal, and manure, moistened
- then we added forest soil
- and covered with mulch, when I say covered with mulch, I mean minimum 4″, 8″ is the most you should need
If you can’t do one of these things, skip it. Don’t get stuck into the mindset that this is an exact science. I love what Joel Salatin said “Anything worth doing is worth doing wrong”. So do it even if you are afraid you will do it wrong! Nature is forgiving and very resilient, Just do it!
If you are afraid of GMO’s in the pellet food, stop letting perfect be the enemy of good! If you do this, and build some good soil, grow your vegetables and eat them, you will have food that is so very much more healthy than anything you would buy in a store. Use this method and get started, then you can worry about perfecting your organic gardening over the next 20 years.
Now, we have our garden beds established, and I think we are about out of time for today’s show. Tune in next week for part two! I’ll be talking about when and how to start seeds or buy plants to put in those beautiful new garden beds.
I hope you’ve enjoyed today’s show on Spring garden planning, if you have questions or show suggestions, please email them to me at homegrownliberty@gmail.com.
I hope you have a wonderful day, God Bless, and “Go Do Good Things”
Sweet, congrats! Look forward to pock Nick 😀 Great intro and info.
Patrick
MT Knives
Looking forward to regular doses of your teaching!
Awesome, glad you are doing good things. I’m so glad you are doing a podcast.
Jason “The Bee Man”
Excellent information. Great first cast. I will be listening to it a few times.Congrats nick!!!
Kaila
BlueRocks Rabbitry
Very interesting I’m starting all this next year, but I look forward to learning all of this before I start my own. Thank you
finally found your podcast after you were on the TSP expert council.
My wife and I are over the road truck drivers and trying to learn while we drive. Thank you for helping.
One suggestion: I think if you want to use 2 ft paths between raised beds or garden beds, you will find it is too small to be workable, especially if you mulch and/or amend your beds on a regular basis or are getting older. I designed my raised beds with every other walkway to be the wide enough to get my wheelbarrow through. That way I can work the beds on both sides from the same aisle and the narrow rows are best for weeding and harvesting. So I have:
Raised bed –32″–Raised bed–24″–Raised bed–32″–Raised bed–24″–Raised bed–32″–Raised bed etc
Good thoughts, I’m still relatively young and fit, 2 feet wide paths work well for me but for others who have mobility issues or need more room to work, sizing those beds accordingly is a good idea.
Great info Nick. It’s funny I’ve started building beds very similar to what you described in this episode. It’s good to know I’m on the right track.
Question: what do you think of perennial covers as a permanent living mulch in garden beds?
I really like the idea of using perennial groundcovers like dutch white clover and possibly even mints in more perennial growing systems. Having a bit of white clover in your raised beds is not a big deal, but if you are managing them intensively it’s a waste of seed because of all the soil disturbance, mulching and addition of compost and manure. If you have matured the beds to the point where very little additional materials need to be added, perhaps using a white clover dominated groundcover would be beneficial. I just find it easiest in my intensively managed annual production systems to keep the soil free to plant annuals with mulch. I may graduate my beds to a different way of growing in the future but for now, it’s intensive soil building methods for me.
Love the show Nick. On episode 3 now. I think you forgot one thing (and perhaps you knock it out in later episodes). WHO ARE YOU? Most of us know you from TSP and the RegenAg FB group but you may be a stranger to others… so yeah, unless you are purposely not giving the info, I think it would be great for you to tell a little about what your background is, how you got to where you are, etc… We want to know more about the awesomeness that is Nick!
Lastly – thanks for making me lose The Game. And since I just made you think about it, I do believe that you just lost too. So you’re welcome.
Really enjoying the podcast!
Did it all today with the help of Mrs. Kubota. But…I added blood meal to the recipe. I have no idea where I got that idea. Should I be worried. Followed everything elso to a T.
Nick,
I’m up in central PA so at this point still dreaming of spring and just getting ready to start seedlings. Has been a mild winter but even at that, other than the top inch our ground is still frozen solid. I don’t have much topsoil in many areas of my property. I suspect the contractor stripped it off for the most part when the house was built. Digging much beyond the thin sod layer, I have a lot of yellow/ gray clay with large chunks of limestone ranging in size from fist size to soccer ball size. Makes for days of fun when trying to dig holes for things lie fence posts.
Doing this in areas of the yard or in existing garden beds this spring, should I expect to need to leave them fallow until next growing season to allow mother nature to do her work? I know you didn’t mention it, but should I use cardboard before the mulch or anywhere in this stack up? I have heard different places about sheet mulching; which to be honest I don’t completely understand the purpose or benefit of. It sounds like you toss cardboard down where there’s yard today and then pile on top of that ala lasagna fashion. Is this something I should even consider? Can I go this route and forego the turning or tilling? I’m sure the areas I’m looking to do are compacted from years of the riding tractor on it.
I get confused hearing about things like you described of the dirt/ sod/ sod/ dirt sandwich or when I hear people talk about sheet mulching and using wood chips as discussed in Back to Eden or as I’ve heard discussed at times over on TSPC (which is where I heard about your podcast from) and sounds to be something some in permaculture subscribe to.
Last year was my first year gardening (beyond the occasional tomato in a pot). I built two raised beds, 4’x15′ with T-frames to allow vertical gardening and using a “soil” mix of 75% sawdust/ 25% sand; following the Mittleider method. I had great success but I would like to get some areas into more of the spirit of renewable ag.
Sorry for so many questions. Awesome first podcast! Content and the audio quality were excellent and I can’t wait to catch up on the others.